Rissian Hats: A Guide to Traditional Russian Headwear

Quick answer: when people say "Russian hat" they usually mean the ushanka, a fur hat with ear flaps. Other well-known Russian hats are the tall papakha and the round kubanka (both associated with Cossacks and the Caucasus), the women's kokoshnik headdress, and the pointed Red Army budenovka. The everyday Russian word for any hat is шапка (SHAP-ka).

"Rissian hat" is how many people type "Russian hat", so this guide is about genuine Russian headwear — what each style is, where it comes from, and how to wear one today. For a wider look at clothing, see our post on Russian embroidery and fashion.

Russian Hat Styles at a Glance

HatRussianPronunciationWhat it looks likeAssociated with
Ushankaушанкаoo-SHAN-kaRound fur hat with flaps for the ears and a front flapWinter wear; Soviet and Russian army
Papakhaпапахаpa-PA-khaTall, brimless, cylindrical fur hatCaucasus peoples, Cossacks, senior officers
Kubankaкубанкаkoo-BAN-kaLow, round fur hat with a flat cloth topKuban Cossacks
Kokoshnikкокошникka-KOSH-nikRigid, decorated headdress, often halo- or crest-shapedTraditional women's dress; folk costume
Budenovkaбудёновкаboo-DYO-nav-kaPointed cloth helmet with ear flaps and a starRed Army, Civil War era
Platokплатокpla-TOKHeadscarf or shawl, often printed with flowersWomen's traditional and everyday wear

The Ushanka: The Classic "Russian Hat"

The ushanka takes its name from уши (OO-shi, "ears"). Its defining feature is a set of flaps: two side flaps that cover the ears and jaw, and a front flap over the forehead. In milder weather the side flaps are tied together on top of the head; in serious cold they come down and are tied under the chin.

Hats with ear flaps have been worn across northern Europe and Asia for a long time, and the ushanka as we know it developed from these earlier styles in the early 20th century. It became standard winter issue for the Soviet army and is still widely associated with the Russian military, police and, above all, Russian winters. Outside Russia it is often called a "trapper hat".

Materials: traditional ushankas were made from sheepskin, rabbit or other furs, with cheaper versions using felt or wool pile. Today you can find ushankas in real fur, sheepskin (shearling), and a wide range of faux furs with cotton or synthetic linings.

The Papakha

The papakha is a tall, brimless fur hat that originated among the peoples of the Caucasus and was widely adopted by the Cossacks. It is typically made from sheepskin, often curly lambskin such as astrakhan (karakul). In the Caucasus the papakha has long carried associations of honour and dignity.

The papakha also became part of Russian military dress, and in both Soviet and modern Russian service it has been worn as a winter hat by senior officers such as colonels and generals. It is warm but more formal than the ushanka, and has no ear flaps.

The Kubanka

The kubanka is named after the Kuban region in southern Russia and the Kuban Cossacks who wore it. It is lower than a papakha, rounded, with a fur band and a flat cloth crown, sometimes decorated with a cross of braid. Kubankas are often seen in Cossack folk ensembles and in historical films.

The Kokoshnik

The kokoshnik is the best-known traditional Russian women's headdress. It is a rigid piece, often shaped like a halo, crescent or tall crest, covered with fabric and decorated with embroidery, gold thread, freshwater pearls or beads, sometimes with a veil or strings of pearls hanging over the forehead. Historically, styles varied greatly from region to region, and certain headdresses indicated a woman's marital status.

In the 19th century the kokoshnik was adopted into Russian court dress, and it has remained a symbol of traditional costume ever since. It is worn in folk choirs, dance ensembles and weddings, and it gave its name to the kokoshnik tiara, a style of jewellery shaped like the headdress. Our article on Russian wedding traditions covers related customs.

The Budenovka

The budenovka is a pointed cloth helmet with a peak and fold-down flaps, marked with a large star on the front. It was introduced for the Red Army around the time of the Russian Civil War and is named after the cavalry commander Semyon Budyonny. It was replaced by other headgear before the Second World War but remains a strong visual symbol of the early Soviet period, often seen in films and museums.

Russian Old Tradition Hats

If you are looking for older, pre-20th-century Russian headwear, these are the names to know:

  • Gorlatnaya shapka (горлатная шапка, gar-LAT-na-ya SHAP-ka): a very tall, cylindrical fur hat worn by boyars (the high nobility) in the 15th–17th centuries. The taller the hat, the more status it signalled.
  • Cap of Monomakh (шапка Мономаха, SHAP-ka ma-na-MA-kha): a ceremonial gold filigree crown trimmed with sable, used in the coronation of Russian rulers before the imperial era. It is kept in the Kremlin Armoury in Moscow.
  • Kika and povoinik: traditional headdresses and caps worn by married women, who customarily covered their hair. A kokoshnik or scarf could be worn over them.
  • Platok: the headscarf. Printed wool shawls from the town of Pavlovsky Posad, near Moscow, with bold floral designs, are a famous example still made today.
  • Papakha and kubanka: the Cossack fur hats described above, which have a long history in the south of Russia and the Caucasus.

Many of these are now seen mainly in museums, historical films and folk ensembles. For more on how traditional dress appears in festivals, see our article on Russian spring festivals.

Real Fur vs Faux Fur

Russian hats are strongly associated with fur because fur is extremely warm, windproof and practical in the long, harsh Russian winter. Today buyers have more choice:

  • Real fur and sheepskin are very warm and long-lasting when cared for, but they are expensive, raise animal-welfare concerns for many people, and are restricted or banned from sale in some places.
  • Faux fur is cheaper, animal-free, often lighter and easy to clean. Good faux fur is warm, though usually less windproof than dense natural fur.
  • Shearling (sheepskin with the wool left on) is a common middle ground for ushankas.

Whichever you choose, check the lining (cotton or quilted linings are comfortable), how the flaps fasten, and the size.

How to Wear a Russian Hat Today

  • Get the fit right. A fur hat should sit snugly just above your eyebrows without pressing. Measure your head circumference above the ears and compare it with the size chart.
  • Flaps up or down. Flaps tied on top look neater and suit town wear; flaps down are for real cold, wind and snow.
  • Match the volume. Big fur hats look balanced with a long coat or a padded jacket. With a slim coat, a smaller fur hat or kubanka-style hat looks less bulky.
  • Keep the look practical. Pair an ushanka with gloves and a scarf for winter sports, walks and travel in cold climates.
  • Be thoughtful with costume pieces. Military hats and religious or ceremonial headwear carry meanings for many people; a kokoshnik is lovely for a folk dance performance or themed wedding, less so as a casual accessory.

Buying Guide: Which Russian Hat Should You Choose?

If you want...ChooseWhy
Maximum warmth in wind and snowUshanka with flapsCovers ears, jaw and forehead
A smart, formal winter lookPapakha-style or kubanka-style fur hatNeat shape, pairs well with a tailored coat
A costume for folk dance or a themed eventKokoshnik or kubankaTraditional look recognised instantly
Something light for milder coldFaux-fur ushanka or a platok (headscarf)Warm without bulk
A historical or collector's itemVintage military ushanka or budenovkaBuy from reputable dealers; many replicas exist

Spotting quality: look for even, dense fur (real or faux) without bald patches, strong stitching at the flaps, ties that hold, and a lining that feels comfortable against the forehead. Vintage Soviet hats are widely reproduced, so check labels and provenance if authenticity matters to you.

Russian Hats in Culture

Russian hats appear throughout art and popular culture. Paintings of boyars in tall fur hats and women in kokoshniks became part of the 19th-century "Russian style" revival in art and theatre design. The ushanka became a stock image of Russian winters in Western films and photographs, and the budenovka is closely tied to posters and films about the Civil War. The kokoshnik has also inspired fashion designers and jewellers, and remains a fixture of Russian folk choirs and dance ensembles.

Caring for a Fur or Faux-Fur Hat

  • Shake off snow and let the hat dry naturally at room temperature, away from radiators or hairdryers.
  • Store it on a hat stand or stuffed with tissue in a breathable cotton bag, not plastic.
  • Brush faux fur gently with a wide-toothed comb; have real fur cleaned by a fur specialist.
  • Keep wool and fur away from moths with cedar or lavender sachets in storage.

Useful Words

  • шапка (SHAP-ka) — hat, especially a warm one
  • мех (myekh) — fur
  • платок (pla-TOK) — headscarf
  • холодно (KHO-lad-na) — it's cold

Learn more in our English to Russian phrase guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Russian fur hat called?

The classic Russian fur hat with ear flaps is the ushanka (ушанка). A tall, brimless fur hat is a papakha (папаха), and a shorter round fur hat with a cloth top is a kubanka (кубанка). The everyday word for hat is shapka (шапка).

What does ushanka mean?

Ushanka comes from the Russian word ushi (уши), meaning "ears". The name refers to the flaps that cover the ears and can be tied up on top of the head or under the chin.

What are traditional old Russian hats?

Historic Russian headwear includes the kokoshnik and other women's headdresses, the tall fur gorlatnaya shapka worn by boyars, the Cossack papakha and kubanka, and the ceremonial Cap of Monomakh used for crowning rulers. The ushanka and the Red Army budenovka are more recent, 20th-century styles.

Is the ushanka still worn in Russia?

Yes. Ushankas remain common winter hats in colder regions, in both real fur and faux fur, although many people in cities wear knitted hats or modern fur hats without flaps.

How do you wear an ushanka?

In mild cold, tie the flaps up on top of the head. In freezing weather, let them down and tie them under the chin. Some people fold the front flap up and leave the side flaps down. Choose a size that sits snugly above the eyebrows.

Is a kokoshnik a crown?

No. The kokoshnik is a traditional Russian women's headdress, often embroidered or decorated with pearls or beads. It inspired a style of jewelled tiara known as a kokoshnik tiara, but the original is a folk headdress.

More About Russian Culture

Continue with our guides to the Russian flag, 19th-century Russia, and Russian culture.